On August 24th, 2008, we headed toward Whistler to climb the moderate multi-pitch sport route: Star Chek. This climb is touted as one of the most scenic routes in the area and, as such, a portrait on this climb has served as crown jewel for many a climber’s Facebook profile. We were excited to see some of the beauty that BC has to offer for ourselves. And we knew others would enjoy seeing us in it afterwards!
Once North of Squamish, the pullout for the hike to the base of Star Chek is 5.8km from the end (not the middle or beginning) of the big orange bridge (BOB). Keep in mind that depending on how many times you miss the pullout on the left, this drive can be significantly longer than 5.8km! For instance, if you turn around prematurely at the salt shed, and do an extra lap over BOB, the mileage will come to approximately 12.4km.
Figure 1. Weather Cheks Out Ok
We arrived at the approach in good spirits. A quick weather chek told us that conditions were perfect for climbing – not so hot that perspiration would be an issue; cool enough that rubber would be at optimal stickiness. Still, we couldn’t see any of the purported scenery that this climb was known for.
Like us, you will need to pinpoint the beginning of the trail that will ultimately lead you to the base of Star Chek. In order to do this, head South from the tourist information sign along the concrete barrier, where something feigning a pathway may reveal itself on your right hand side. Other trip reports claim that this path is clearly marked with flagging tape. It is not. Rather, small rock cairns mark the route you should follow, though they occasionally also mark the route you should not follow. The path meanders through a fanciful faerie landscape, across moss boulders, past a group of mysterious bolted single-pitch climbs and into some fine situations up a steep skree slope. Cross high and hope like we did that it’s not too crowded – the internet is awash in warnings pertaining to not knocking rocks down onto lower parties while approaching. We pushed on through this uncomplicated approach confident that the scenery would make itself evident when we reached the climb proper, and naturally excited to see it firsthand.
Figure 2. Navigation was facilitated by a previous party’s excellent trip report (TR)
Figure 3. Fanciful faerie landscape
Please note that full washroom facilities are not available at Star Chek. Unless you have a cat-like ability to both balance on steep slopes and bury your waste, it is recommended that you use the washroom at Star Bucks instead.
Figure 4. First Belay – It’s ok. May feel some spray, don’t let it ruin your day!!!1!
A fixed rope allowed us to reach the first belay without knocking the entire scree slope into the river below. As indicated in previous TRs, there was a rushing river below the belay, although it appeared a bit closer than in the pictures we’d seen. Perhaps the area had seen recent rainfall. Scenery remained elusive, but our many year of trad climbing experience told us that often the first pitch does not provide the magnificent vistas that do the upper pitches. Andrew chalked up and took the sharp end for the short P1.
Figure 5. Rock climbers often use a thick coating of chalk-and-water paste to gain improved purchase on cliff features
Figure 6. P1 = Done.
The chalk paste worked! P1 went down with no major hurdles. The second belay proved as dull as the first. Nonplussed, Sara took over the lead for P2, which rode the arete through some exposure. Andrew excitedly belayed.
Figure 7. Sara, as usual.
Figure 8. Enthusiasm levels remain high!
Figure 10. Yes! – Sara’s Reverso3 in action prior to its untimely demise.
By the third belay, our entire party was beginning to wonder what all the fuss was about. We had been stocking up on superlatives for (literally?) tens of hours prior to this climb, and still had no use for them. None of the research we did on this climb indicated how slow-to-dry it is when it is raining. Perhaps this is due to its close proximity to a raging river? Likely, it was the sight of water (literally!) streaming down P4 that caused Sara’s shiny new Reverso 3 to launch itself off of the belay ledge and into the milky arms of the Cheakamus river below. Mourning the loss of her Reverso 3 and faced with a potential ground fall at the 2nd bolt, Sara shakily backed off of P4, allowing Andrew to demonstrate his tights skills [editors' note: Andrew was (literally) wearing tights]!
Figure 11. Granite provides excellent friction on P4.
Figure 12. Nothing to see here.
The climb to the summit was pretty okay, but the vista itself was rather dull. Bowing to convention we captured a photo of our party having completed these underwhelming few pitches. Then we started the slog back to the car, which begins just up and left of the tree you must belay off if you miss the bolts at the top of the climb. Follow the well-worn path the the left until you reach an impossible-to-descend cliff face where you can turn around, back track and find the actual path out (up and the the right of the bolts–if you can find them).
Figure 14. Summit shots are nothing to write home about.
Conclusions:
Do not climb Star Chek. It is a slippery, un-scenic romp through one of BC’s most nondescript areas. Other trip reports are actionably misleading. Should you foolishly choose to make an attempt on this summit, be sure to pack a dry pair of socks for the long drive home, as they will make the discomfort of your wet pants almost bearable.
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